#ORIS CALIBRE 400 ISSUES ISO#

The movement, despite not using a silicon balance spring, has a total of 30 parts made of amagnetic materials, including the lever and escape wheel, as well as the axes of a number of critical components including the balance, escape wheel, and lever.

This efficiency is enhanced by the use of a silicon lever and escape wheel, which interact with very low friction and which, of course, do not require lubrication (in this movement and others using the same solution, this contributes to better long term rate stability). Oris says that the Caliber 400 delivers about 85% of the mainspring barrel torque, as opposed to an average of 70% in a conventional movement. Power is delivered in the caliber 400 by two mainspring barrels, and the design of the gear train – including the gear teeth profiles, as well as that of the escapement – is intended to minimize energy losses due to friction and optimize efficiency. As a consequence of the cost and time it takes, series-produced in-house movements are generally made by companies that are either part of a larger group, with a big war chest, or by individual companies with the resources (and money) that it takes to do it. All this is by way of saying that today's announcement from Oris, of its new Caliber 400 self-winding, five-day, antimagnetic movement, is a big deal for the company and its fans.

Many so-called new movements are, in fact, variations on existing movements, and developing an entirely new in-house caliber is an expense that can easily take years and run into the millions of dollars (or yen, or francs, or euros, depending on where you've set up shop). The movement, for all that it is often the least talked-about part of a watch, is of course what makes a watch a watch, and they're extremely expensive to develop and to tool up to produce. The 40mm stainless steel case is water resistant to 100m.It is not often that manufacturers announce a new movement, and as most know, there are excellent reasons for this.

#ORIS CALIBRE 400 ISSUES ISO#

While it’s still a diver under ISO 6425 standards, and I am aware that the very first diving watches had bi-directional bezels, it is a little baffling. I may be being thick here, but what is the point of this? The unidirectional diving bezel keeps you safe as the bezel is designed to move backwards (in the safety direction) if knocked.

For reasons beyond my understanding, they’ve swapped out the unidirectional for a bi-directional watch with 1-hour intervals. Speaking of the bezel, Oris has fallen into the same trap as Omega has with their Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT. The domed crystal over the dial, thin bezel and lugs with large diameter crown come together to form that historical vibe. Inspired by Oris watches from the 1960s, as the name implies, the Divers Sixty-Five 12H Calibre 400 with its long name takes us on a trip back in time. Most brands have a range of watches that are dedicated to looking quite historical, looking back at where the brand has come from as a springboard to lead onto where they’re going next. The Divers Sixty-Five range is one of the ranges Oris is most well-known for, it could be the most, but they also make the Aquis, and there are loads of them on forums. Oris, ever the crowdpleaser, is presenting some new models, the one that caught our eye the most is the Divers Sixty-Five 12H Calibre 400.

Think of it as a mini Watches & Wonders event. Geneva Watch Days, which is happening right now, shows off lots of new and exciting creations from all manner of brands.

Oris calibre 400 issues